Whatever you are, surf.
SURF BE AS YOU ARE TO BE HAPPY.
Your physical shape and your age do not have to be decisive in your desire to surf, no matter how you are, surf, because you are going to get something good. If you can't stand up, row, give it a try, get into the water.
MY BEGINNINGS IN SURFINGThe things that life has, I was born in a neighborhood of Madrid that is very, very far from the beach, but far not only because it was in Madrid, but because it was far away mentally, socially, economically, because in a neighborhood in the south of Madrid nobody surfed. I grew up in the eighties and nineties and although I dreamed of the sea, it has not been until now and after a therapeutic process of removing all the limiting, but also dreams, many dreams, I have begun to reinvent myself as a surfer apprentice, mom of an apprentice rider and a jewelery artist who creates pieces of surf and marine jewelery.
My LIMITATIONS, SURFING WITH OVER 40
There have been times in my life when I have thought that surfing is not for me, or what they have told me "that's for people with pasta" , in fact I have friends who climb or dive and think like this, that diving and mountaineering are cheap (sarcasm mode on). It seems that your sport has to be something else and not surfing depending on where you come from. , but that is a limitation that we put on ourselves ... well, and a bit the others, but I do not want to have mental limitations of this type, much less be limited by others.
Also in recent years my weight and my figure are not the same as before, so I have also had a negative conditioning to change my wetsuit size and get into the water. I admit that there has been a time when I have been ashamed to look down and see my incipient belly ... but what can I do, I come from a family with "good looks", I quit smoking a long time ago and I like to eat. That coupled with parenting is a booooommmmbaaa. Rather, it is cellulite, tummy and together with pre-menopause and this year's surgery, because more sugar in the cup. To top it off recently, Covid 19, the perfect shot to continue without going into the water.
FEAR OF ENTERING THE WATER
By last the fear, I am a scared in general, I have lived for a long time in a permanent state of alert so fear is a constant fight in my life. As for the sea, I am afraid of going into the water alone because when there are waves the sea mistreats you and crossing the surf is almost impossible in my state. Scared because I'm new to this beach, because there are hardly any people, cool thing on the other hand, and because maybe a blue shark comes, or I see a whale in the distance, or a dolphin approaches me or a shark and bites me or a jellyfish and it stings me. Yes, I know, I am obsessive compulsive. Another one of the things I struggle with.
GET ON THE BOARD AND SURFSo I said to myself, Hey baby! There are no excuses or better, I have stopped listening to myself, listening to my poor excuses for not entering the sea and I have decided to throw the house out the window now that the world only thinks about vaccines and confinement, I have asked myself a long time, because I'm worth it, because I live in the Mediterranean and because I want to surf, stand up and have fun with these waves, regardless of how I am, how I am, whether I am old enough to surf, to row, to skate ... yes, I am older to be older. I am old to have responsibility, I am old to not be able to do what I want, because life passes fast and I want to live cool, I want to enjoy surfing, of going to a concert, of seeing Ben Harper or Metallica again, of traveling to New Zealand, of not feeling that I die alive because what makes me feel alive is what makes me be in Flow status , where the ego disappears and time flies, where your whole being is, applying all its faculties to the maximum ... AND THAT'S SURFING.
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